Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase through a link on this page, I may get a commission, at no cost to you. Any recommendations that I make are for products or services I have personally used and highly recommend.
Tootsie’s Bottom Line:
Savannah: A gorgeous, historic city. It’s a must see although not for young kids-no glitz
- Stay: Westin, Savannah Riverfront, reasonably priced, nice hotel with great service
- Eat: Clary’s Café, 404 Abercorn St.
- To Do: variety of tours, can’t recommend any single one but Savannah’s history is worth learning about
- Reading: Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil-MUST READ, see below
Jekyll Island: Sleepy barrier island; great beaches and escape from life
- Stay: Residence Inn (178 S Beachview Dr) and Westin (110 Ocean Way)
- Residence Inn: brand new hotel, the service was phenomenal; staff goes out of their way to make people feel welcome and eager to help any way possible
- Westin: beautiful hotel; service average
- Dolphin Tour: departs Historic Jekyll Wharf, had a fun tour with Captain Phillip, saw both dolphins and manatees
Savannah
Summer was passing quickly, and I realized that a variety of commitments would prevent us from taking a family vacation this year. So, I stole a couple of days away with my girls for a quick trip to Savannah, GA and Jekyll Island, GA.
When I arrived in Atlanta over 20 years ago, I expected sweeping lawns, huge oak trees and large homes with oversized porches. Oh, and palm trees. Clearly, my knowledge of geography is abysmal. Instead, I found a busy city that over 4 million people called home with a continuously running billboard showing how quickly the population was increasing!
Shortly after moving South, we had some friends traveling to Savannah. They asked that we meet them there and I had a required reading assignment, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. I started the book but hadn’t come close to finishing when we went. We made the four-hour drive to Savannah, and I fell in love. This was the South I’d imagined. My friend and I toured the city, devouring everything we could find that related to “The Book”. “Midnight” by John Berendt was published in 1994 and called the New York Times bestsellers list home for 216 weeks! The non-fiction novel follows a sophisticated antiques dealer as he stands trial for murder. When I returned home, I read “The Book” (twice!).
I decided to share one of my favorite cities with my girls. We arrived in Savannah, and it is still one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen. This is the deep south where the pace is a little slower, the drawl a little longer, tea so sweet your spoon stands up in the glass and no one apologizes for enjoying a slower pace. Who could blame them? Savannah sits on the Savannah River and is home to 22 historic squares. The squares are like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Beautiful historic homes wrap the perimeter of each square with, what I would call, an urban garden in the center. The squares have a line of sight in each direction, allowing for communication long before anyone heard of a phone. You can walk on sidewalks right though the center of the squares or enjoy the longer route on the perimeter. Sadly, several squares were torn down before their value was truly realized.
We just stayed one night but enjoyed our time walking the squares, doing a little shopping and savoring a hugely different part of our beautiful state. We stayed at the Westin Riverfront which is across the river from the historic district. It can be reached by car or ferry (free). The hotel is beautiful, and service was excellent. Our room overlooked the water, and we enjoyed some time in the hot tub before sitting around a fire pit to make s’mores. Only downside is that you’re not in the historic district the minute you walk out the door, but the view is very nice and access is easy.
We ate breakfast before leaving town at one of my favorites, Clary’s Café. Clary’s is in “The Book” and I can assure you that despite having a steady flow of diners, they are not reinvesting much into the business. The food is very good and portions are generous. Mike took great care of us while we were there. Clary’s opened in the 1930’s as a drugstore and soda fountain. I’m guessing that Clary’s embraced the fame of “Midnight” and eliminated the drugstore to become a full service restaurant. You can easily find it if you’re walking the squares; it sits between Calhoun and Lafayette Squares. Great place!
Jekyll Island
I made my first trip to Jekyll Island for our first Thanksgiving in Georgia. What a gem! If you are in fifth gear in Atlanta, you’re in second in Savannah and you’ll enjoy the gentle downshift to first when you arrive on Jekyll Island. Jekyll is one of the barrier islands on the coast of Georgia; it’s about a 90 minute drive from Savannah. As with so many places, its’ history is fascinating. This was once a winter haven and hunting ground for wealthy Northerners. In 1886 they established the Jekyll Island Club, it quickly became known as “the richest, most inaccessible club in the world”. The members, which included J.P. Morgan, William K. Vanderbilt, Joseph Pulitzer and William Rockefeller, built large homes they called cottages and a country club to enjoy meals and sporting activities. They built the charming “Faith Chapel” with the most beautiful stained glass windows, “David’s Window” by Louis Tiffany and “The Adoration of the Christ Child” by Maitland and Helen Armstrong. We did a tour of the property and I recalled what the guide told me 20+ years ago; “wiggle around in that pew, one-sixth of the world’s wealth sat in those seats at one time. Maybe some will rub off on you”. Fascinating that so few held so much and that they congregated on this small island!
We checked out two Marriott hotels for our brief stay. The first night was spent at the newly built Residence Inn. They’d opened a few weeks prior and were eager to make our stay as enjoyable as possible. We paid a pricey $400+ for one night but were traveling the week of July 4th. The king suite had a bed, pull out sofa and full kitchen. The hotel is ocean front with a pool, hot tub, fire pits and corn hole boards. A short walk over the dunes puts you on a beautiful quiet beach. Our stay included daily vouchers, $10 at the hotel market, $10 in food/beverage from the bar/restaurant, and free bikes for 4 hours for two people.
We spent the second night at the Westin just down the street. We stayed in a double queen room for about $350. Also ocean front, the lobby is beautiful and the hotel has a nice pool and hot tub. Another short walk over a bridge and you find yourself on the same beautiful beach with lots of quiet. No fighting for a place to sit on this island. No free perks at this hotel just for staying, bikes are available for rent and food/drinks are available.
The island is flat so biking is relaxing. We rode on the road and took a few trails through the woods. It was flat, easy riding. I often marvel at the courage of cyclists in the Atlanta area. Nothing to fear here!
We enjoyed a 90 minute dolphin tour that started at the Historic Jekyll Wharf near the Jekyll Island Club. We were on Captain Phillip’s boat. The tour was very relaxing and we enjoyed watching dolphins, birds, and manatees! Our hosts were Captain Phillip and his wife and they are not only funny but shared some interesting history of the island and the creatures that make their home in these waters. Definitely worth giving it a try.
Food is somewhat limited although there are far more choices than the last time I was there. We ate at Beach House Restaurant one night. It’s a pretty simple place that includes a little of everything. Nothing special; but we enjoyed wings and salad. Lots of fresh local seafood here and we don’t eat any of it, so please ask for suggestions.
Jeklyll Island is a little-known treasure but very much worth the visit. Enjoy the warm, salt air and the long exhale as you walk the quiet beach and take a step back in time.